A journey to Albania

Earlier this month, purchase we had the chance to visit Albania, from North to South and West to East; well, almost...

We hope this short tale about our journey will give you the inspiration to travel to this wonderful country!

Tirana, the capital of Albania, might seem as a strange place to visit, the structure of the city itself is quite complex. A walk through the city can easily reveal all its parts and different atmospheres. If you start from Bllok, a closed neighbourhood before the nineties, hosting during communism officials of the regime, you will surely be impressed by the number of cafes, restaurants and various shops. Bllok is indeed full of life from the early morning to the next one! It is also very interesting to see how new constructions are changing the face of Tirana, here and there, new buildings are growing; hotels replacing gardens of the former villas, reopened cafes in Ismail Qemali Street.

Heading yourself towards the river will undeniably lead you to Skanderberg Square, “the navel of Tirana”. Alongside this place, you may see the National Museum, ministries and al old mosque for the Ottoman Empire’s rule. Surrounded by crowded streets this place is comfortable to observe while sitting close to the museum.

If you still continue your walk you will certainly enter in the old Italian town. This is for sure the most surprising part of Tirana, full of hidden ancient buildings, palaces and villas dating back from the Thirties. Nowadays this part of the city doesn’t anymore concentrate all the activities and unfortunately is not a strong urban centre.

During my stay in Tirana I was mainly working with ADCT (Association for development of cultural tourism), an NGO based in Tirana. It organises cultural tours in Albania, with the aim to develop rural areas through the share of their cultural heritage and knowledge. ADCT works as a connection between stakeholders, such as Government bodies, other NGOs and business sector. Gathering people and particularly tourists through craftsmen demonstration, traditional dances and songs is one of their main objectives. ADCT is implementing actions all across the country, in Gjirokastra they for example, participate into the Craftsmen Festival, which is occurring each September. I have also visited the office of CHwB Albania, the branch of ChwB, a foundation working in the field of heritage, human rights and culture. They have projects all across the country, in Kruja, the ancient capital of Albania, Fier or Voskopoja, a monastery in the east of country, close to the Lake of Ohrid.

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Going out of Tirana straight to the south, towards Berat and Gjirokastra is highly recommended for visitors in Albania. The first of these cities, Berat is located at the entrance of the Osum river valley, surrounded by mountains and pine forests. If you enter Berat from the main road, the city will exhibit its masterpieces right after you will see the castle. The old-town, perched on the hill faces another old neighbourhood, Gorica. These streets could give to anyone the impression to be back to the Ottoman Empire. Very preserved, these stone walls are an efficient time machine for anyone who is interested into simply walking there. Berat is also a lively city, the main street now transformed into a pedestrian path can attest it, people gather there at the evening when the temperatures cool down a bit.

One of the most impressive buildings of Berat is not an old fortress neither an old mosque, but a freshly new built university. This stunning dome-building with its 50 metres, is for sure, the highest, judge by yourself this Unidentified Laying Object...

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Southwards, Gjirokastra is divided into two parts; the new town down in the valley, and the old one upstairs, close the castle. This city is impressive in the way how it mixes natural and historical beauties. Indeed, in Gjirokastra, you can leave in the early morning for a hike in the mountains, through Ali Pasha’s bridge; and in the afternoon visit one of the numerous traditional houses of the city. From the highest balcony of the Zekate House, you can embrace typical pieces of art from this region and a range of mountains facing the city.

Skenduli and Zekate Houses are typical examples of fortress houses, all protected and inaccessible from the ground. They used to be inhabited during the 19^th Century by the wealthiest families of the region. These families were subjects to many troubles, including blood revenges and political struggles against the Ottoman Empire. If you are planning to visit these houses you will probably meet one of the descendents of these families, they indeed still live and maintain these houses with the help of local organisations, such as Gjirokastra Foundation and Culture Heritage without Borders.

Gjirokastra Foundation is currently implementing many projects in Gjirokastra and Berat, such as the restoration of stone roofs, typical from this region. The foundation is also running the Babameto House, a restored house containing nowadays a hostel, a museum and a cultural centre. The aim of this “poly-centre” is to diversify the cultural offer in Gjirokastra and to create a contact between inhabitants of Gjirokastra and the tourists. Gjirokastra Foundation also organised events for the tenth anniversary of the UNESCO classification of the city.

Being the birthplace of the former dictator, Enver Hoxha, Gjirokastra was classified as a museum city before the nineties; this statute can now be seen through diverse monuments and vestiges from this period. Thanks to a guided tour, organised by High-School students of Gjirokastra, from the obelisk, “Mëmëdheu”, to the monument commemorating Cerçiz Topulli, you will find several hidden details of local history.

But Gjirokastra is also the home-town of Ismael Kadare, one of the most influential Albanian writers. Kadare wrote a lot about his town, notably the Fall of the Stone City.